Kuehl Family Reunion, 1987

Not this coming weekend but the next is the Kuehl family reunion. For many years now, it has been held on the first Saturday of November. Whereas during my childhood and my son's early childhood, the reunion was a picnic held in a Trimont, Minn., park, these days it's a foeden-making party. Foeden are donut-like treats made in a special skillet.

The following is an essay I wrote in 1987 and hoped to publish. It has waited in my document files until now to see the light of day. I am in the process of sorting through all my writing and separating the wheat from the chaff. This piece is part travel story of the small towns of southern Wisconsin and Minnesota, and part philosophical musings on the nature of family, connection to the land, and traditions.

Taking the Long Way Home




Over the Back Roads of Wisconsin and Minnesota


As a young child, the drive to Ormsby, Minnesota, had seemed endless to me, and so I could hardly blame my 14-month-old son for squirming in his car seat and occasionally wiggling his way out when we made the trip with my mother this past summer. At the end of our journey, relatives waited for us and for the Kuehl family reunion, an annual tradition that my mother had tried to make every year when my brother and I were children. Now that she has a grandchild, she feels the pull of time all the more strongly, and so seeing her "people," as she calls her sisters, is becoming more and more important.

I sat in the back seat with Aaron while my mother drove. Mine was the more rigorous detail. Keeping Aaron entertained for two days--five hundred miles--of driving was no easy task, but I quieted his cries and forestalled his screams with my shopping bag full of tricks: picture books of doggies and duckies, a yellow play phone for calling Daddy, a hedgehog hand puppet in a red bandana, Aaron's favorite teddy and, when all else failed, Goldfish crackers I fed him slowly, never more than one per mile.

It was a cool and drizzly June morning when three generations of Kuehl started out for the homestead in southwestern Minnesota, driving west from Racine via Highway 20. At Rochester, what must be one of southeastern Wisconsin's most picturesque towns, we turned north onto 83, on which we passed fences and barns of Kettle Moraine field stone, rain-sprinkled pastures and cows lazily grazing under overcast skies.

We stopped for mid-morning coffee and the best homemade poppyseed cake I'd ever tasted at the family-run Genessee Depot in the town by the same name. Dressed in blue-and-white-striped apron and hat, "Grandma" brought us mugs of hot coffee while her seven-year-old grandson took our order and my mother talked with the boy's father about Alfred Lunt and Lynn Fontanne, the Broadway stars who adored the Wisconsin countryside and built their estate outside of town.

At Wales we again turned west, this time on 18, which took us all the way to Madison. Before we reached the capital and what was to be the most congested leg of our journey, we stopped in Dousman, just long enough for me to photograph an unusual building at the side of the road--a barn or a storage shed, I wasn't sure which--painted a soft peach with white filigree woodwork along the eaves that made me think of a cake with elaborate icing.

When I had made this trip with my parents and brother, we had always taken 12 out of Madison, and farther on, 16, highways which have now been all but rendered obsolete for interstate travelers by I-90, which closely parallels them for many of their miles. This summer, however, we opted for a different path--14 and its meanderings through Black Earth, Mazomanie, and after it crosses the Wisconsin River, Spring Green, where we stopped at a roadside park for a picnic lunch. Huddling beneath an open shelter, my mother and I ate the Cornish hens I'd prepared the night before while Aaron played with the hand-pumped drinking fountain.

The skies began to clear in the afternoon as we headed north on 14 through Gotham, Richland Center and Readstown, and by the time we reached Viroqua, we had rolled down our windows for a chance at a cool breeze. Instead of continuing on 14 to La Crosse, I convinced my mother to head west out of Viroqua on 56. She said she had never taken this stretch of road before, and the mere three cars we saw along the 20 miles to the Mississippi River town of Genoa were evidence that not many others had either.

In sleepy Genoa we turned north on 35, a lovely road that made me wish we had more time to take 35 south along the river banks to Praire du Chien and then back north again to La Crosse, our motel stop for the night.

After a McDonald's breakfast the next morning, we crossed the Mississippi. I attempted to focus Aaron's attention on the river, so he could share in my excitement, but all he was interested in were the trucks on the bridge and the teddy in his arms. It was a perfect day for traveling--sunny but not hot, blue sky with plump clouds, not too muggy.

Our first hours were spent in the hill country of southeastern Minnesota, much of which is state park and forest lands. The few small towns along 16 are snuggled beside the Root River, which does much to give Hokah, Rushford and Lanesboro a sense of timeless peace. We detoured at Peterson and Whalen, the two smallest burgs. Located over an old bridge that crosses the Root, Peterson's only inhabitant appeared to be a lone dog. The shops were all closed, and looked as if they had been for some time. The houses didn't appear abandoned, yet there was no one around. We drove to the highest point in town, a steepled church. It was for sale.

Whalen appeared more optimistic, though not much livelier. A gift shop had tried to survive on Main Street, and failed. A grocery store was in the process of shutting down. But the town had a park with two picnic tables and a gazebo, and the historical society maintained a museum, which was closed when we were there. I left the hill country thinking how sad it is that the most beautiful places are usually the ones where it's so difficult to make a living.

At Preston the terrain abruptly turned flat; the vegetation changed from forests to farmers' fields. At Grand Meadow we attempted to piece together a path over county roads, but kept getting turned around, passing through Rose Creek three times before giving up and, reluctantly, joining with I-90. The long, monotonous miles of cornfields prompted my comment: "I bet a lot of farm kids look at this freeway and think, 'That road's my ticket out of here.'"

Just west of Welcome, we left the interstate and drove eight miles north on Minnesota 4 to the first settlement of Trimont. Over the years, my aunts and uncles had left Ormsby, where my Grandma Kuehl had lived until her death in 1965: Gilma, Dorothy and Viola now resided in Trimont; Bernita, in St. James.

We had supper that evening at Aunt Gilma's: pork chops, green-beans-and-Velveta casserole, jello salad with a dollop of Miracle Whip. After the dishes were done, I put Aaron in his stroller and walked along the deserted main street, past the cafe where retired farmers, like my uncle Bill, went to shoot the breeze about the price of corn.

I pushed the stroller to the very edge of town. Strange, but this town really did have an edge. Next to the implement shop, just beyond the railroad tracks, Trimont ended and fields of soybeans, lavender and pinkish in the last rays of sunlight, began.

I thought of all the cities and towns I have known in which the residents were strangers, and of my son who has logged more jet time than most of his Minnesota uncles and aunts have accrued in their lifetimes. Aaron has flown from Los Angeles to Milwaukee for two Christmases, two weddings and one family reunion. He's traveled the West Coast in his parents’ van, his first camping trip when he was not yet three months old.

The long-awaited family reunion took place on Saturday afternoon at the shelter in one of Trimont's two parks. Aaron wasn't yet walking, but I set him down as soon as we got there and didn't pick him up again until we left six hours later. He had plenty of great aunts who were more than willing to fuss over him, and he was pleased to explore on his own, getting dirtier than my cousin Nick's 1000-pound sows.

I hadn't been to a family reunion in nine years, when my husband and I had driven out from Chicago, where we lived before moving to California. Cousins I had remembered as delightful preschoolers were now in junior high, and those who had been fixed in my memory as insecure teenagers had become lawyers, small business-owners, middle managers and teachers in my absence. My cousin Heidi is a now wildlife biologist for the Minneapolis Zoo.


As I now put maps of Wisconsin and Minnesota in Aaron's baby book and mark our route in yellow felt pen, I think of my aunts and uncles in rural Minnesota, who, almost without exception, have never traveled abroad, indeed many rarely leave their immediate area. A shopping excursion to Minneapolis, a little over two hours away by freeway, is a major trip. I thought of L.A., where I now live, and how one city rubs right up against the next with only a sign to let you know you've left one for another.

Even the surrounding areas are not familiar. I had asked my Aunt Dorothy what she knew of Swastika Beach, a town less than 20 miles from her home in Trimont. "How did it get that name?" I wondered. She'd said she'd never heard of the place, yet, in over 70 years, she's never lived more than 50 miles away. "There are so many little settlements no one ever hears about," she had answered. "You only know the towns where someone you know lives."

I think of the traveling my son will do in his lifetime, the people he'll meet and befriend in far-off places and the towns he'll know even though he knows no one in them. I have only two wishes for my young traveler: that he'll also want to "know his roots," as his grandmother would say--the Kuehls who will wait for him every summer at family-reunion time in places like Ormsby, Trimont, St. James and Alpha; and that maybe someday he and I will both discover what goes on in Swastika Beach. Until then, youngest cousin Vonn and best-looking cousins Nick and Neal will continue to farm the rich black earth that provided a livelihood for my grandparents, Reinhold and Augusta, and so assured that their children would grow to adulthood and have children of their own, who would gather together for family reunions like this one

Slipping

About two months ago, I was at my peak. I was working at a good pace at cardiac rehab without any symptoms. I had no chest pain or constriction, no shortness of breath. If only I could have had transplant surgery at that time.

Since then, things have declined. This is the first I've admitted this to anyone, out of concern that, should I say anything, I will be taken off the transplant list. My performance at cardiac rehab has gone down. I have had to scale back on both the incline and the speed on the treadmill. At night I have to sleep almost sitting up because of the chest constriction I feel if I am lying prone.

I am hoping for a miracle or a quick transplant. I have to put my energy into mind over matter, telling myself even when I am symptomatic, "It is easy for me to climb these stairs. It is easy for me to walk this distance. It is comfortable for me to lie in bed."